How to Properly set up a C-stand
When using any kind of stand or tripod, common sense is the key. It's not actually the stand that you're usually worried about, but the expensive light, gels or other equipment that you will connect to the top of it that can break. Although it largely depends upon the environment where you're shooting, here are some tips for properly setting up a c-stand. 1) Find a good surface to place the c-stand: More often than not, you'll be shooting film school projects in and around the film school. In most cases, dorm floors, classrooms and sidewalks are fine to set up your c-stand. Be wary, however, of setting up your c-stand on the ground. C-stands are about 15 pounds and with a light on top, they get heavier. In soft mud, your light might slowly tip over. Also, be wary of setting one up on a slick ramp, stairs or a hill. The legs can adjust to alternate heights to compensate to some degree, but if the surface is too slick, you may have a problem. Be wary of setting up your c-stand like this (link: http://cinemasupplies.stores.yahoo.net/cstan40doubr.html). Some c-stands have extra legs: three used to hold the stand and extra legs to steady it. Your film school stands will probably only have three or they may have once had four, but a former student lost or broke the extra legs. 2) Extend the legs equal distant around the stand and lock them down: Ideally, your c-stand legs should look more like this (link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C-Stand). There may or may not be a screw to lock the legs in place. The weight of the stand should hold it, but I'd advise additional insurance. Sandbags placed on the lower legs will help keep your c-stand in place even if someone brushes up against it. You don't need it for all three legs, but it's good to have it on at least one. If you have a lot of people in your crew, you can simply have one of the crew members stand next to the c-stand to steady it and protect from anyone that might trip over it. On a professional production, they will always have sandbags. The top leg of the c-stand is the heaviest leg and that should be pointing in the same direction as the arm (if you're using it). The sandbag should be place on the leg opposite the arm as a counter weight to whatever object the c-stand arm is holding. 3) Place the light or piece of equipment on the stand: Remember, you're main goal in c-stand safety is to protect your equipment. It's easier to lock the light on the stand when it is low, than when it is fully extended. You may want to extend the c-stand at least to chest level or whatever it comfortable first. Just make sure the c-stand is locked if you let the light's weight press down on it. 4) Lock the light or piece of equipment down: If you forget to do this once, you probably will never forget again. Make sure the light is tight on the stand. You can always turn the stand, that's what it's for. If you have a light or a piece of equipment on the arm of the stand, you want to lock it so that the knob or "knuckle" is turning towards the right and towards the object the arm is holding. In this way, the weight of the arm helps keep it locked in place. 5) Adjust the height and lock the stand down: With the light locked down, tweak the height to where you need it to go. You may still have to adjust it once the light is plugged in, but do as much as you can ahead of time. The lights get very hot, very quickly. Make sure you lock down the c-stand at all heights. 6) Weigh down the light chord: Bring the chord from the light down around the c-stand. You should run it under at least one of the legs and the sandbag before your plug it in. This is in case someone trips over the chord or pulls on it by mistake. If the chord is coming off the top of the light, it's much more top heavy. If the pull stops at the bottom of the stand, there's a good chance the c-stand won't fall over and break your light. 7) Duct tape the light chord: Things can get pretty hectic on a movie set. You don't want a lot of wires strung all over the place for people to trip over. Run the extension chords under rugs and out of areas where people will walk. If you have a path where people will definitely walk, don't forget to duct tape the chord the entire width of the path. Extra crew members can also help keeping foot traffic away from your chords. 8) Open the barn doors and pick your gel: Again, don't power up yet. Get your light set up as far enough ahead of time as possible. If you already know what gels you're using, set them up. The c-stand has arm especially for this function. It also can be used to hold a microphone if you don't have a boom mike or a boom mike operator handy. There may not be an attachment for the mike, so just carefully duct tape it by the microphone (not the cable). 9) Power up the light and tweak: Be careful you don't burn yourself when you are tweaking. If you need to adjust the height of the c-stand, hold the stand near the top and loosen the stand below. After you adjust to the height you want, make sure you lock it down. (Did I mention you have to lock the c-stand down?) 10) Shoot your movie: Simple! Ha! 11) Power down and cool down: Lights get hot and sometimes the c-stand will too. Let the lights cool down before you attempt to take down the c-stand. 12) Gently bring down the c-stand: Again, hold the light near the top of the c-stand and loosen below and then gently bring down the light. Once you get the c-stand down to a lower level, remove the sandbag and move the light where you need it to go on the set. If you're moving it more than a few feet, be wary of the chord you taped down and the plug. It's a good idea to have someone else help you move the light especially if you're swimming in crew. If you are breaking down to move to a new set, unplug the light, put the light and the gels away, loosen the c-stand, collapse the c-stand (don't let it slam down), loosen the legs and collapse them too. Don't leave duct tape taped to the chords and don't pull it up by the chord. Overall, c-stands are pretty durable, but if you dent them deep enough you'll have trouble opening and closing them. The key is to make sure you lock down the c-stand when you use it. I cannot tell you how many times in college a c-stand slammed down and broke the light in the middle of a take. It's a real pain in the ass to replace a bulb when you're on location and if the school's equipment cage is closed that day, you're screwed. (It's sometimes a good idea to carry replacement bulbs with you for just such an emergency.) Pulling down a light is equally disastrous, not only because it will break your equipment but because someone could get really hurt on a hot bulb or barn door. Sandbags are really a lifesaver in this regard, so if you can't get some for your shoot they are fairly easy to make. (Canvas bag + sand = sandbag.) C-stands are also good for holding things like bounce boards, cue cards and even pieces of your set. With a roll of duct tape, some c-stands and an enterprising crew, you can pretty much achieve anything. C-stand prices http://www.bmlighting.com/catalog/cstands.htm Forum discussion of using c-stands http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00HE94 Set Lighting Technicians Handbook http://froogle.google.com/froogle?hl=en&q=Set+Lighting+Technician%27s+Handbook
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